원정 개요

Schuler was the only member to get to the summit. He was there at 10:30 am on 28 September.

All three members reached C4 on 27 September, but Benz developed a case of incipient cerebral edema during the night. He and Luck, who went along to look after him, descended: they stopped in C3 early on the morning of the 28th; later that morning went on down to C2, where they waited for Schuler to join them, and all three returned to BC at 6:00 pm that day.

This expedition had two trekking agencies looking after them. Russell Brice, who had his own team as well, gave them advice, and all logistics, including tents, sleeping bags, etc., plus food and kitchen staff, were provided by his agency, Mountain Experience. Their arrangements in Kathmandu were provided by Active Holidays Nepal Trekking.


Email - Feb 1, 2010

We took our skis up during our acclimatisation phase. On 23 Sept we started from our C1 at 6400m to the North Col at 7000m. We put up a camp there and stayed the night. On 23 Sept the three of us skied all the way down to crampon point, and we skied all the way - from 7000m all the way to crampon point at the bergschrund at about 4900m. The North Col at 7000m was the highest point for us during our acclimatization. We did not put up a camp there during our summit push. After that acclimatization we decided to push for the summit from BC without skies. The reason for this was that it would have been too exhausting to take our skis as we did not have any climbing skis. During the night on 27 Sept Benz got sick and he had to descend from 7400m and that was, of course, without skis as nobody had used skis during the summit push.