원정 개요

On 28 Sept summit team left C4 at 2:30 am. Weather clear and calm. The Chinese team had already broken part of the trail a few days earlier. Lhakpa and Thundu broke trail to the col. The summit ridge had been fixed by the Chinese. From the col it got a bit windy and cold.

Allen, Jack, Norris, Willet, Lhakpa Thundu and Tshering Namgyal stopped at the false summit due to the queue, the exposure of the final cornice, or they were planning to ski down (like Jack and Willet).

The rest of the team (Pitkethly, Prodlock, Sovdat, Casserley, Todd, Mellor, Nima Gyalgen, Nga Tenji and Lhakpa Wangchu had to wait for Russell Brice's Sherpa Dorje to fix the rope in order to get to the real summit. When Casserley came down the cornice he met Mallor and Todd on the bottom of it. They asked him to go back up to summit again to take a picture, so he did.

Jack and Willet skied down from the false summit to BC. They took their skies of 200m below C2 due to a white-out and walked for about 50m. They skied the rest all the way down to crampon point at 5000m. They left the summit at 8:05 am and arrived at BC at 4 pm.

Todd, Mellor, Allen, Tshering Namgyal and Lhakpa Wangchu descended to C3, where they arrived at 5 pm. Norris, Casserley, Sovdat and Pikethly arrived at C2 at 4 pm. Proudlock to C2 arrived at 7 pm. Nima Gyalgen, Nga Tenji and Lhakpa Thundu descended to BC, where they arrived at about 7:30 am.

On 29 Sept everybody went down to BC. People, who came from C3 arrived at 7 pm, and people, who came from C2 arrived at 1 pm.

Trott reached C2 on 19 Sept. She stayed two nights but turned back due to a bad Achilles tendon and she felt generally ill. She stayed in BC for the remainder of the expedition.

Fixed rope: 1000m from C1 + C2, C3 to C4.

Oxygen:
Members (apart from Casserley) from C3 to summit to C4.
Casserley from C4 to false summit. He climbed up the final cornice
without oxygen and descended without oxygen.
Sherpas from C4 to summit to C4.

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Wangchu, Pangboche, Khumbu, 23/10/86
Everest: Double summit in 2007, 2008 and 2009
Nima Gyalzen, Ghat, Solu, 31/8/86 (15/05/2043)
Everest: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
Nga Tenji, Makalu-9, Nurbagaon, 28/2/80 (16/11/2036)
Everest: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009
Lhakpa Thundu, Pangboche, Khumbu, 20/05/70
Everest: 2001, 2004, double summit in 2007, Annapurna I, Cho Oyu
Tshering Namgyal, aka Ang Namgyal, Pangboche, Khumbu, 14/5/84 (1/3/2041)
Everest: 2006, 2007, 2008, 2009; Cho Oyu: 2006