원정 개요

BC south of Lunag Glacier.

The Swiss expedition's permit was for Jobo Rinjang, but since an American had scaled its main summit, Pt 6777m on the Schneider Khumbu map, Schaffter decided to change his objective to another peak in the same range, Lunag's West Summit, 6907m, west-northwest of Pt 6777m.

BC was established on 26 September at 5128m on grass south of Lunag Glacier and due south of their summit. Their C1 was pitched on 11 October at the bottom of the ridge that leads north towards the summit (and then turns east towards Pt 6777m). From the 11th to the 16th, Carrard, Haeni, Schaffter, Dawa and Krishna Bahadur [Tamang] fixed 800m of rope and had made their route to 5800m on a glacier southeast of Lunag's west summit by the 16th. But there was a lot of rock fall in the area, and they decided to abandon the attempt to scale this Lunag peak.

They now focused on an ascent of Pt 6589m [6478m on HMG-Finn map], which is south-southwest of the Lunag peaks, southwest of Jobo Rinjang's Pt 6777m and west-northwest of BC. For this climb, they pitched a new C1 south of the old C1 on the 17th. From the 17th to the 19th, they fixed 800m rope on this mountain also. They climbed 500m up a steep (60 degrees) snow couloir, then a 120-meters-high ice wall 80-degrees steep, next 80-85 degrees bare rock, and finally a snow ridge with cornices.

On 22 October the summit party left their new C1 at 2:00 am. They were Carrard, Haeni, Schaffter, Vallot and the two Sherpas. When they reached 6150m, it was very cold and the members decided to move quickly in alpine style, leaving the Sherpas to go back to BC while the members continued to the summit, where they arrived at 2:10 pm. Schaffter went down to C1 while the three other members descended to BC; Schaffter was in BC the next day after the others had joined him at C1 to retrieve the camp's gear. [This ascent is disputed: see AAJ 88:64-71 (2014)].

On 24 October, all the members, including Apa and Abdul Karim, plus both Sherpas, climbed Pt 5777m, which was south of their BC, via its rocky NE Ridge. The purpose of this climb was to show Apa and Abdul Karim in action for the film Schaffter was making.

The next day, the team left BC to return to Kathmandu.

Sherpas:
Dawa Sherpa, 7/2/78 (25/10/2034), Tashigaon, Makalu-5, no 8000ers
Krishna Bahadur Tamang, 26/10/69 (10/6/2026) according to his citizenship
certificate, Kanku, Everest X4