원정 개요

BC at normal site
C2 on glacial plateau below serac face
High point at serac face.

C3 planned for 6500m but not possible to reach that site. Climbed to 6400m in face of seracs twice. 21 Sept fixed 400m rope to this spot and slept in C2; during that night falling seracs took away rope, pitons, etc. Plateau where C2 pitched received one or two avalanches daily. 22 Sept down to BC. 6 days in BC during bad weather with some snow. 30th Sept good weather and up to C1 by 2 members. 1 Oct up to C2; 2 Oct stayed in C2; 3 Oct again climbed serac face to 6400m saw impossible to go farther: needed 700m fixed rope but didn't have it. Very steep and difficult big seracs.

"Very nice mountain but very dangerous."