원정 개요

ABC on moraine of large Glacier southwest from BC
C1 at North Spur of West Ridge
C2 on the North Spur.

The team approached the mountain from the northwest; they followed the Phu Khola past Phugaon to Phu Goth and east to BC, which they established at the normal BC site for climbers on Ratna Chuli to the north.

From BC, they went down a moraine wall and southwest up a large unnamed glacier to ABC.

Above C2 they moved up a steeper section of the spur at about 40 degrees and joined the normal West Ridge route, which they followed to the top.

Two parties made bids for the summit. The first one left C2 at 8:00 am on 6 November; its members were Chessell, Mannix, Morrow and Sarah, plus three Sherpas: Dawa Chhiri, Pasang Sherpa and Lhakpa Rangdu. All of them reached the summit at 5:00 pm and all descended to C2 at 8:30 pm. They returned to ABC the next day.

The second party was not so fortunate. Lord, Maclachlan, Yates, Densa Bhote, Doma Chhiri and Pemba Norbu left C2 early on 7 November, at 5:00 am. Lord turned back at 8:00 am, when he had reached 6400m and become exhausted; Doma Chhiri went back to C2 with him. The remaining two members and two Sherpas got to 6900m at 11:30 and they, too turned back; the members were cold and tired and didn't want to carry on. They also went back to C2 for the night. All were down in ABC on the 8th and everyone was in BC on the 9th.

One member, Turner, never went above ABC. Every time he ate, he was nauseous (perhaps from incipient altitude sickness) and he became weak. He stayed in ABC throughout the climbing period.

The only other health problem was slight frostnip on the fingers of Maclachlan, Mannix and Morrow, making their fingers numb.

Sherpas:
Dawa Chhiri, aka Da Chhiri, 19/2/78, Phurte, Khumbu, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2,
Lhotse X2, Makalu X1
Densa Bhote, 4/11/81, Hungung, Farang, Makalu-Barun, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X1
Doma Chhiri, 17/1/84, Sikli, Jubing, Solu, Everest X4
Lhakpa Rangdu, 18/11/67, Tala Kharka, Sotang, Solu, Cho Oyu X3, Everest X5
Pasang Sherpa, 27/4/78, Lelep-8, Taplejung, Kangch X1
Pemba Norbu, 6/12/78, Lelep, Taplejung, Cho Oyu X1, Everest X2