원정 개요

BC west-northwest of mountain on north side of glacier
C1 at glacier
C2 at glacier
C3 near section of glacier.

Between the dates on which the expedition pitched C1 and C2, 5th and 10th October, where there were three days of snowfall, which delivered one meter of snow at BC and more higher up on the mountain.

From C1 to C2, the generally west to east route led up a steep section of the glacier involving a brief turn to the left (north).

The team fixed a total of 200m of rope in scattered places.

The summit push began from C3 at 2:30 am on 17 October, when de Rybel, Terbrack, Wesseling and Sherpas Dawa and Norbu left for the top. One member, de Rybel, turned back at 7050m because he was exhausted and returned to C3 while the rest of the party gained the summit at 11:00 am. All were in BC on the 18th.

The leader, de Graaf, had climbed to only C1's 5500m on the 5th in the establishment of the camp. He stayed there that night, descended to BC the next day, and spent the rest of the time there. He had no more strength to carry on.

Sherpas:
Dawa Sherpa, 1/11/71, Tapting, Solu, no 8000ers
Norbu Chhiri Sherpa, 29/5/87 (15/2/2044), Bhamti Bhandar, Ramechap, no 8000ers