원정 개요

C1 at NE Col
C2 at start of NE Ridge.

Cimenti Dhaulagiri Expedition 2009

On 4 October, the two climbers went up from C2 to 6800m, where they deposited gear, and then returned to BC to rest for two days. This turned out to be their highest point.

Now the weather turned bad: on their first day in camp, it rained and next day snow fell and continued to fall daily. Strong wind came up, and it was foggy. They were stuck in BC.

Finally on the 10th, they were able to return to C1. Here they found their tent completely smashed and unusable, but they could recover the gear inside it, and they sheltered in a nearby snow cave.

On the 11th they went up towards C2, but the snowfall and strong wind returned, and they turned back at 6150m and went back to the C1 snow cave.

On the 12th they left the snow cave at 2:00 am and at 7:00 am Cimenti arrived at the site of C2; Riba came an hour later. They dug in the deep snow for their tent for four hours but could find no trace of it, and at 11:30 am snow began falling again. They decided they had to abandon the climb because they had no more equipment left with which to continue. Cimenti descended all the way to BC at 2:15 that afternoon, while Riba stayed an extra night in the snow cave and joined Cimenti in BC at noon the next day, 13 October.

The two members had climbed together all the time except on their final descents to BC.

They fixed 200m of rope on 21 September between BC and C1 on the rock wall called the Eiger. When they went up this way again after the heavy snowfall, their rope was buried, but they didn't need it to climb a snow-covered wall.