원정 개요

SW Ridge route (left side):

Bortel and Marek started putting fix ropes about 1000m up to 710 m on 19 September. There is a most difficult part about 100m up from 7100m. Then started snowfall for four hours. Bortel and Marek descended to C1. Next day 20 September, they went down to BC, their C1 collapsed by avalanche on 20 September. Weather was bad and there was not sign of improving. They were running out of time. The expedition decided switch their climb to normal route instead of waiting to try the planned SW Ridge.


NW side (normal route):

Approach: from SW Ridge to northwest side BC

Bortel, Lukas, Luptak, Marek and Sulovsky started from C2 at 3:30 am NST of 1 Dec. Marek and Sulovsky reached summit at 2 pm. Bortel reached summit at about 2:15 pm. Luptak reached summit at 2:45 pm. They stayed on summit about one hour then descended to C2 at 6 pm. Slept at C2 next day to BC. Lukas turned around from around 7300m due to his crampon problem. The summit day weather was beautiful, nice view, no wind. After 5 pm then started snowing a little. Bortel, Luptak and Marek started cycling from Kodari and arrived in Kathmandu on 7 Oct. Lukas and Sulovsky returned to Kathmandu on 8 Oct by bus.