원정 개요

BC at normal site
C2 at NE Col
C3 at start of steep section of NE Ridge
C4 at beginning of summit rocks (end of snow ridge).

12th Oct rested in C4, 13th started for summit and reached 7600m and gave up: Vroutsis with frostbitten fingers and toes (2nd degree) and Lambris coughing and feared pulmonary edema. Down to C3 in early afternoon, just as big 3-day snowstorm began and impossible to move for 3 nights and 2 days (other team's climbers bogged down too). 16th Oct all down and 17th all in BC. Now all members not feeling well and little help from "Sherpas." Sirdar announced he had finished climbing 10th Oct (wanted more money?) and other 2 "Sherpas" also gave up climb and said weather getting worse and time to go home; "it was a mistake." Doctor strong but had to accompany frostbite cases to Kathmandu. Entire team left BC 24th Oct.