원정 개요

BC near US-Australian-Spanish BC
C2 at same crevasse as
C3 at same place as above North Col ridge and before rock
C4 near Scott's - on face 100-150m from Ridge.

Members "very strong people" and stayed till last moment but a little tired "at end." 3 May tried to reach C4 site but reached only 7600m and weather getting bad and decided to go down in expectation of bad snowstorm (same day US, etc to top). Arrive 10 May C2 where tent has been destroyed by avalanche so dangerous ice cave because no tent left. 13 May start up from C2 but again heavy snowfall and again down to BC same day. 17th all 4 up to C1, 18th C2, 19th C3 (in April's 10 minutes now 3 hours and to ascend). 20th made C4 and snow began again and snowed all night. Took only 2 sleeping bags and little food, planning to stay only few hours before going for top, but had to spend two days there cramped in small tent in strong wind. 22 May Felipe and Zuloaga down while Xabier and Oiarzabal stayed few hours more, then they also down to C1 and BC 23rd.

26 May Oiarzabal and Zuloaga left for KTM and 27 May Xabier and Felipe to C1. Very tired so rest in C1 with US-Australia food and big storm, lightning and snow, next day very hot. Now still tired and decided perhaps could get to top, but descent questionable so decide to quit and down on 29th.