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Baruntse Polish Expedition

Baruntse · 2009 · 가을 (3) · Poland

원정 개요

ABC at east side of West Col
C2 below SE Ridge
High point on SE Ridge.

Before going to Baruntse, the team acclimatized by climbing Island peak. All members (except the leader) and three Sherpas summited on 20 September.

The team's high point was reached on 3 October by Fronia and Horzela with Sherpas Ang Nuri and Gyalju. They left C2 at 7:30-8:30 am. When Fronia reached 6700m, he found a big crevasse. He managed to get around it on its left side, but the next one at 7000m was impassable: its sides were vertical very soft snow, which would not hold pitons or crampons, and there was no way around this one. Both members and both Sherpas got to this point and agreed they had to give up. They were back in BC at 5:30 to 7:30 pm and the climb of Baruntse was abandoned on the 4th.

The only health problems were suffered by two porters. One, Ram Bahadur Rai from Sotang, developed pulmonary edema at BC the day the team arrived there. He was given oxygen and sent with the other porters; he recovered at 5000m. The other, Tita Bahadur Rai from Khotang, arrived at BC on 6 October to carry a load away from BC in the team's departure. That day, at Seto Pokhari, he became seriously ill from pneumonia, and he was carried for three days to Lukla.

Sherpas:
Ang Nuri, 21/3/56, Mopung, Beni-5, Solu
Gyalju Sherpa, Yawa, Taksindu-6, Solu

  • 내부 원정 ID6593
  • 원본 EXPIDBARU09306
  • 대장Ewa Szczesniak
  • 루트 (Route)SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도7000m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)

참가자 11명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Ewa SzczesniakPolandLeader---
Anna Barbara CzerwinskaPolandClimber---
Rafal Maciej FroniaPolandClimber---
Mariusz HorzelaPolandClimber---
Jakub KaminskiPolandExp Doctor---
Jolanta MalinowskaPolandClimber---
Wiktor MalinowskiPolandClimber---
Ryszard SzkutnikPolandClimber---
Sylwia Zaremba-JanukowiczPolandClimber---
Ang Nuri SherpaNepalH-A Worker---
Gyalju SherpaNepalH-A Worker---

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