원정 개요

BC next to lake (normal site)
C1 at east side of West Col
C2 at bottom of ridge.

The team went first to Mera Peak for acclimatization, and both members got atitude sickness which prevented their going above 6100m during their climb on 30 Sept-1 Oct.

In their Baruntse summit push, Cullen and Johansen, plus Sherpas Sonam Dorje and Lhakpa Tshering, left BC and went directly to C2 on 16 October. On the 17th they left C2 for the top at 3:30 am. When Cullen reached the big crevasse at about 7000m at 9:00 am, he turned around: the climb was now too technical for him; he returned to C2. Sonam Dorje told Lhakpa Tshering to go down with Cullen; Lhakpa Tshering apparently misunderstood and went down from 7050m to C2 by himself.

Johansen and Sonam Dorje continued to the summit and arrived there at about 10:45 am. They, too, went back to C2 and were there at 2:00 pm. Johansen was very tired and stayed there for the night, while Sonam Dorje descended to BC and Johansen followed him there on the 18th.

Cullen was in C1 on the 17th, and he also descended to C2 on the 18th.

They had no health problems on Baruntse.

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Tshering, 19 years old, Pangboche, no 8000ers
Sonam Dorje, 18/1/86 (5/10/2042), Pangboche, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1