원정 개요

BC by small lake (normal site)
C1 just over West Col
C2 below SE Ridge (below normal site).

C2 was established at 6400m below the SE Ridge, a little lower than the normal site, because this place was more sheltered from the wind. From here the team made their summit push.

All 11 members and both Sherpas left C2 for top at 3:00 am on 17 Oct (at the same time as an Adventure Consultants team). At 6900m, they encountered a big crevasse which traversed the whole ridge. This problem was solved by the expert climbing by one of Adventure Consultants most experienced Sherpas, Lhakpa Rita, who was climbing now with an independent American, Vanessa Folkerts. Carrying a rope and a shovel and using an ice axe in each hand, he climbed the upper right side of the crevasse. The upper side was about 20m above the lower side. When he reached the top, he let down the rope and cut steps in the upper side. Now the members could reach the opposite side of the crevasse and continue up the ridge to the summit.

But here at 6900m, two members turned back: Schmalzl, whose old back injury was starting to hurt, and Waag, who was late reaching this point; he got there at 12:00 noon, when summiters were arriving in their descent.

The summiters were on the top between 10:00 and 11:30 am in very clear weather and no wind, and the temperature was not very cold, only minus 13 degrees Celcius. They were: Bucher, Ernst, Issler, Kleine, Lenzen, Ramsebner, Steiner, Wagner and Wangeler, with their Sherpas Chuldim and Ngima Tenji.

All descended to C2 by 3:00 pm and to C1 at 5:00 pm; Bucher, Ramsebner, Steiner and Wangeler continued to BC the same day. Everyone was together at their base on the 18th.

The team were very lucky about the weather. They had no problem with the wind, but on the 18th, the day after their success, the weather changed and very strong wind started to blow.

Sherpas:
Chuldim, 10/9/71, Khumjung, Cho Oyu X8
Ngima Tenji, 31/8/84 (15/5/2041), Chechewa, Waku-9, Solu, no 8000ers
Lhakpa Rita, 9/9/66, Thami originally, now Seattle, Everest X12, Cho Oyu X6