원정 개요

BC1 south of mountain
BC2 southeast of mountain
High point at Ghanagor Pass.

Grobel and his team did not know the best approach route to the mountain and went by much longer way: from Jomsom, they trekked northwest to Chharka Bhot, then east and northeast via the Chharka Tulsi Khola to the Nakhkhem Khola to BC1 at 5500m north of the Nakhkhem Khola and south of Arniko Chuli.

They arrived at BC1 on 29 September, and the same day Grobel went up onto Chanagor Pass on Arniko Chuli's SW Ridge. Here he could see that this summit ridge was not difficult but was "not interesting," so he returned to base and the attempt on the mountain [was abandoned].

On 30 September the team moved to their BC2 at 5450m east of BC1 and north of their next objective, the unnamed point 6026m which Grobel named Anige Chuli, which he said was the original name of Arniko Chuli. That day Bonhomme, Chavy, Flaven and Grobel, plus Gyalzen Sherpa, climbed its west snow slope.

On 1 October the same four Frenchmen and Sherpa went north from BC2 and scaled the western snow slope of the unnamed point 6060m, on which Grobel bestowed to name Typhoon Peak in honor of the Japanese climber-explorer Tamotsu Ohnishi, who had been in this area in the summer of 2002. The team's climbing phase was not ended.

On 2 October they left BC2 and went east via the Kekyap La and a path used by locals north to Lho Manthang village. This Grobel thinks is the best approach to Arniko Chuli. They arrived at Lho Manthang on 4 October. They visited the area and made their way south via the Kali Gandaki River to Jomsom, and from there returned by road to Kathmandu in the very early morning of 14 October.

Montus-Auge did no climbing because he was it fit enough and was tired.

Sherpa:
Gyalzen Sherpa, 26 yrs old, Walung, Makalu-9, no 8000ers