원정 개요

C1 at normal site
C2 at normal site
C3 former normal site.

Before going to Ama Dablam, the expedition first went to Lobuche East to acclimatize. All seven members and four Sherpas summited it on 16 October.

The first ascent of Ama Dablam this autumn was made by this team. The route between C2 and C3 involves a traverse above the Mushroom and leads to a steep wall. Allan's team fixed 1000m of rope on most of the route halfway above C2 to the summit and donated 100m more meters for others to fix.

They pitched their C3 at the old normal C3 site, part of the which was hit by a destructive avalanche in the autumn of 2006, killing six people. The site had not been used since then but Allan says it is now quite safe. Besides, the site of what teams were calling camp 2.7 is not safe now.

The summit was reached on 25 October by five members and four Sherpas: Allan, Flux, Lydiatt, Morley, Morris-Macintyre, Dawa Chhiri, Kusang Tenzing, Lhakpa and Lhakpa Dendi. They left C3 at 7:30 am after waiting for the sun to come up, and they were on the top within 20 minutes of each other around 1:00 pm.

Allan, Lydiatt, Morley, Kusang Tenzing and Lhakpa descended to C2 to spend the night; they arrived there between 4:00 and 5:15 pm. The remaining British and Sherpa summiters stopped in C3. All were back in BC on the 26th.

Two members did not go to the top:

Evenden climbed halfway to C2 on 23 October, turned back and went down to BC the next day. He was climbing very slowly and had a bad cough; he decided he should stop climbing.

Dave Morris summited Lobuche East with the team. But he had an operation on his throat and can speak only by pressing a soundbox to his throat. When he arrived at Ama Dablam BC, his throat was full of flem and he was not very fit (he is 63 years old). He remained in BC until 26 October, when he climbed up to C1 to meet the returning summiters, who included his son, Calum Morris-Mcintyre.


Email from Dave Morris - 5 Nov 2009

Morris-MacIntyre (Calum) managed the ascent very well and did not appear to have any problems, apart from a close shave with a falling rock, which glanced off his arm and leg, but without doing any damage.

As you see I ran into problems with a chest infection after two weeks and this has taken a further two weeks to clear up. I seemed to acquire it soon after Dingboche and it was a bit of a struggle from there up Lobuche, Kalapattar and Everest Base Camp. Nevertheless the hospital people back here in Dundee seemed amazed that I had managed to get to 20,000 ft on Lobuche East Peak having both a laryngectomy operation (last January) a chest infection to deal with. I also managed to get to C1 on Ama Dablam to meet Calum and the others as they descended, so that was reasonable compensation for not managing the main climb.


Sherpas:
Dawa Chhiri, 20/2/67, Kurima, Lokhim, Solu, Makalu X3, Everest X3, Cho Oyu X3,
Manaslu X1
Kusang Tenzing, 16/5/86, Ghunsa, Lelep-9, Everest X2
Lhakpa Sherpa, 11/10/78, Zarok, Namche-1, Everest X4
Lhakpa Dendi, 22/11/74 (7/8/2031) or 21/12/64 (7/9/2021), Makalu 18/5/08