원정 개요

Osaka Alpine Club West Nepal Expedition led by Tamotsu Ohnishi - 23 Aug 2009

Ohnishi's plan was to climb three peaks in Kanti Himal, Kaptang, Koijchuwa Chuli and Daphne Shail, all on the border with Tibet, and then visit a number of more passes between Nepal and Tibet. However, after they had been on Kaptang and Kojichuwa Chuli, most members were too tired to explore the passes, and the team headed directly to Jumla and Kathmandu.

Their approach route was by air to Nepalgunj on 19 May and to Jumla on 20 May, then from Jumla on 22 May they trekked north to Rara Lake, northeast to Mugu Khola, north along Mugu Khola to Kaptang BC.

On 2 June, they reached Kaptang BC at 4300m just below Najala Pass of the border ridge. They made an ABC at 5492m on the south side of the mountain on 8 June, and on 9 June Irizawa, Ohnishi and Gomba Sherpa went for the top. They left ABC at 6:00 am, were on the summit of Kaptang at 2:00 pm and back in ABC at 4:00 pm. They had climbed the North Face (from Tibet) and had fixed 400m of rope on the steep, 70-degree fce.

On the next day, the 10th, the remaining members went to the summit. They were Mizutani, Suzuki and Tsuji. They left ABC at 5:00 am, summited at 9:00 am and returned to ABC at 2:00 pm.

On the 15th the team made a new BC for Kojichuwa Chuli at 4600m south-southwest of the mountain. On the 21st, Irizawa, Suzuki, Tsuji and Gomba attempted the NW Ridge between the two mountains on its Tibetan side. The set out from the new BC at 5:00 am, at 9:00 am were at 5565m, too tired to press on to the top. They now turned back to BC and reached it at 2:00 pm.

The next day, 22 June, they left camp to return to Jumla. They went to Mugu village, Ghora La, Yala La, Bhijor, Shey Gompa, Phuksundo Lake, and from Ringmo near the lake on 23 July they took a helicopter to Nepalgunj. Tsuji had a stomach problem and needed to fly out; the others went along with him. From Nepalgunj, they flew to Pokhara, spent a few days there and were in back in Kathmandu on the 26th.

Sherpa:
Gomba Sherpa, 6/12/84 (21/8/2041), Sotang, Solu, no 8000ers