Slovenia Pumori Expedition
Pumori · 2009 · 봄 (1) · Slovenia
원정 개요
While Stremfeljs went to Mera, rest went direct to BC where Andrej and Marija Stremfelj arrived on 22 April from Mera Peak.
Slovenian Pumori Expedition led by Andrej Stremfelj - 6 May 2009
The expedition included members who were celebrating thirty years of climbing together, they came to enjoy being on a mountain together once more.
They tried two different lines on the SE Face. (They are numbered 57 & 59 on the sketches of Pumori in Jan Kielkowski's booklet). On 18 April Bozic, Groselj, Pemba Sherpa and Pemba Gyalzen went to the standard route (often called the Spanish route). They climbed to 5400m, then decided that falling ice and stones made that route too dangerous and returned to BC the same day.
On the 21st, the same four climbers attempted the line, the so called French route, that starts slightly to the left of the standard route. They fixed 200m of rope up this route to 5700m that day and descended to BC.
On the 23rd, Kotnik, Metod Skarja, Vodisek and the two Sherpas went back to the second route. Skarja got only to 5100m on the face, had not acclimatized well, and turned back to BC, while the others continued on up and and added more rope to 5730m before returning to BC.
The next day, there were a lot of falling rocks, so they decided that line was too dangerous. Andrej Stremfelj, who had joined the others at BC on the 22nd, decided to go to their original line and see conditions for himself. He and the two Sherpas went there on 27 April. The three men climbed to 6100m after having fixed 150m at the bottom of the route and finding some old ropes already on the route were still sound. Stremfelj went alone to 6140m, and from there he could see the way ahead was too difficult and dangerous for him to climb alone, but most of the other members had left BC on the 25th. He retreated to BC and the team's bid to climb Pumori was over.
On the 29th, Andrej Stremfelj and Pemba Sherpa trekked wast from Kalapattar to Changri La, a 5697m high pass to go to Gokyo. They stopped at the pass without crossing it because Stremfelj felt the other side of the pass was too steep for the Sherpa. They returned to BC that day and on the 30th, they, Marija Stremfelj and Groselj vacated BC.
Two members never went above BC: veteran alpinist Tone Skarja and Sead Muhic.
Sherpas:
Pemba Sherpa, 1981, Lamabagar-1, Dolakha, no 8000ers
Pemba Gyalzen, 4/9/74, Phortse, Everest X2
- 내부 원정 ID6504
- 원본 EXPIDPUMO09101
- 대장Andrej Stremfelj
- 루트 (Route)SE Face (to 6140m)
- 최고 도달고도6140m
- 정상 등정 성공아니오
- 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
- 종료 사유산악 상태 (5)
참가자 11명
| 이름 | 국적 | 역할 | 정상 등정 | 산소 | 사망 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Andrej Stremfelj | Slovenia | Leader | - | - | - |
| Stipe Bozic | Croatia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Viktor (Viki) Groselj | Slovenia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Ivan (Ivc) Kotnik | Slovenia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Sead Muhic | Bosnia-Herzegovina | Climber | - | - | - |
| Anton (Tone) Skarja | Slovenia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Metod Skarja | Slovenia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Marija Stremfelj | Slovenia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Rafael (Rafa) Vodisek | Slovenia | Climber | - | - | - |
| Pemba Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |
| Pemba Gyalzen Sherpa | Nepal | H-A Worker | - | - | - |