원정 개요

On 19 May, Furukawa, Kazuyoshi Kondo, Kami, Gyalzen, Phurba Bhote, Bibas Gurung started from C4 around 2:0 am. Kondo arrived summit around 10 am, Furukawa and hired other Nepalese within 30 minutes. They stayed on summit about one hour. It was a very good weather, clear sky, no wind. The summiters descended to C4 at 2:30 pm. They had rest at C4 about one and half hours, then went to C3 where they arrived at 7:30 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. On summit day they were 2 climbers ahead of them (maybe Italians). Behind the team were Hosokawa, Spanish and a tall European or American.

On 20 May, Katsuno, Kenichi Kondo, Kami Singee and Dawa Tenjen started from C4 around 6 am and reached summit around 1:15 pm. They stayed on summit for about 30 minutes, then descended to C4 at 5 pm, slept there. Next day to BC. Summit day weather was not so bad. Before sunrise it was windy. During ascent weather was frequently changing cloudy, windy and clear. There were some other climbers who summited on that day.

Kono climbed only up to C3; not enough acclimatization.

Fixed rope: 200m contributed.

Oxygen:
Furukawa from C3 to summit to C3.
Katsuno did not use.
Kazuyoshi Kondo to C4 to summit to C4.
Kenichi Kondo to C4 to summit to C4.
Kami and Gyalzen did not use.
Phurba and Bibas often not used.
Kami Singee and Bibas from C4 to summit to C4.

Sherpas:
Dawa Tenjen, 21/12/74 (6/9/2031), Makalu-5, Everest X2
Phurba Bhote, 7/5/76 (25/1/2033), Hatiya-1, Makalu, no 8000ers
Bibas Gurung, 6/6/66 (24/2/2045), Hatiya-7, Makalu, no 8000ers
Gyalzen Sherpa, 22/4/61, Yilajung, Dhaulagiri I X1, Cho Oyu X1, Everest 22/5/07
Kami Sherpa, 29/6/66 or 9/7/66 (15 or 25/3/2023), Makalu-5, no 8000ers [??]
Kami Singee Tamang, 16/7/77, Syamba, Ramche-4, Rasuwa, Everest X1, Makalu X1


Japanese Alpine News - July 2010

Tsunemichi Ikeda reports that only Kazuyoshi Kondo, Kami Sherpa and Gyalzen Sherpa reached the true summit on May 19; all others (3 Japanese and 4 Sherpas) stopped at the fore-summit on May 19 and May 20. This information was given to Ikeda by Kazuyoshi Kondo.