원정 개요

The expedition made several attempts to get to the summit. Bolotov made the first one on 29 April, when he left C3 at about 4:00 am and reached 8000m at 11:00 am. He was not acclimatized well enough to continue, and he descended all the way to BC.

On 8 May, Belous, Bolotov, Chesnokov, Duganov, Gudjabidze, Lutokhin, Sinev, Sololov and Sofyer left C3 at about 1:00 am, but at 3:00 am the wind became very strong and they returned to C3 to sleep until 9:00 am, then retreated to BC.

The third bid was launched on the 14th from BC to C1, on the 15th to C2 and 16th to C3. On 17 May Bolotov, Duganov and Sokolov started up at 1:00 am, but they had climbed only 50m when the winds came too fierce to battle and they were back in C3 at 2:10 am. Vinogradski had climbed with them to C1; he decided there was too much snow and went back to BC; he had reached 7100m on 29 April to acclimatize. Gujabidze was also with this party but stopped at C2 because he had a bad cough.

On 18 May the three who gotten only 50m above C3 the day before, Bolotov, Duganov and Sokolov, tried once more. They started up at midnight of the 17th/18th and finally summited at 10:00 am. The wind now was not very strong. They went all the way down to BC on the 19th and the expedition's climb was finished.

Members who left early:

Belous had gotten to a high point of 7400m on 30 April; he left on 14 May because of the strong wind.

Bystrova reached C3 on 30 April, was not strong enough to go higher, and left on 14 May.

Chesnokov got to C3 on 29 April, did not acclimatize well, and left on 14 May.

Frolenko got to 7400m on 29 April, also did not acclimatize well and left on 1 or 2 May.

Lutokhin reached 7250m on 30 April, then decided to leave on 14 May because he thought the weather was so bad that there was no point in staying longer.

Moskalev reached 7100m on 29 April, left on 14 May because he thought the weather was hopeless for climbing.

Ilya Rozhkov got to 7400m on 29 April, left on 1 or 2 May he had had enough and the weather looked hopeless.

Ryzenko same as Rozhkov.

Sinev same as Lutokhin.

Sofyer same as Lutokhin.

Zadokhin went to C2 on about 27 or 28 April but was not in good condition and he left about 3 May.

One member who did not participate in summit bids but stayed until the end was Eduard Rozhkov. He reached 7100m on 29 April, was not feeling well because of a throat problem and stayed in BC.