원정 개요

Summit team left C3 at 9 pm on 18 May. Weather was clear. They spent about 15 minutes on summit on 19 May. Descended to BC where they arrived at 5 pm except Sharma, who spent night at C2.

Bhutia reached 7900m on 19 May; he turned back due to problems with his oxygen regulator.

Bisht reached C1; he did not acclimatize well so he abandoned his climb.

Hussain reached C1 on 27 April; he abandoned climb due to fatigue.

Jha reached C2 on 28 April, stayed the night to acclimatize; he ran out of time.

Lagwal reached C3 on 10 May, was stuck in blizzard for three days; returned to BC on 13 May. Thakur, Rana, Sherpa & Bhutia were with him. They all descended to BC. Linyu reached C3 and stuck in same blizzard.


Indian Everest expedition, Neeraj Rana - 30 May & 21 June 2009

The expedition was formally called the Joint India-Bangladesh Makalu Expedition 2009, but the only Bangladeshi member, Khaled Hussain, was a BC member, did no real climbing and left early.

The successful summiters were Dogra, Jalal, Sharma, Kusang Dorje Sherpa, who is Indian, and Nepalese Sherpas Serap Jangbu, Dorchi, Lhakpa Ongyal, Nima, and two Pasangs. Serap Jangbu left for the top from C2 at 9:00 pm on 18 May, summited at 6:45 am on 19 May, and descended to ABC at 2:00 pm the same day (according to information he gave to Jeevan Shrestha in late May). The others left C4 at 6:45 pm on 18 May and summited together at 6:45 pm on 18 may and summited together at 6:45 am on 19 May.

Thakur fell on 1 or 2 May when he was between C2 and C3, but said he was not badly hurt. He descended to BC to rest and seemed all right. He even climbed again to C3 on 11-12 May. But back in BC on the 16th, he refused to eat or drink anything. He was stuck at BC by a three-day blizzard, and by the time a helicopter could evacuate him and the team's doctor from Shershon, below BC, to Kathmandu on the 19th, he was unconscious. He died in hospital on 24 May. The autopsy performed in Kathmandu gave the cause of death as intra-cerebral hemorrhage; the report found "pneumonia in left lung and cerebral edema with intra-cerebral hemorrhage in both hemispheres of the brain." It also mentions "punctuate abrasions in right side of the neck" and frostbite in fingertips.

There were plans for more members to go to the summit after the blizzard had passed, but news of Thakur's death in Kathmandu put an end to those ideas.

Oxygen was used by all summiters including Sherpas above C3 to the top to C3.

Nepalese Sherpas
Dorchi Sherpa, 1/12/79 (15/8/2036), Walung, Makalu-9, Lhotse X1, Makalu X1
Lhakpa Ongyal/Wangel, 19/8/66, Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Makalu X1, Manaslu X1,
Everest X1
Nima Sherpa, 14/2/77, Makalu-5, Everest X1
Pasang Sherpa, 20/2/1983, Balakharka, Makalu, Everst X3, Cho Oyu X1
Pasang Sherpa, 10/7/76 (27/3/2033), Siddhapokhari, Kerabari, Sankhuwasabha,
Everest X2
Serap Jangbu, 25/7/69, Khumjung, Everest X3, plus eight other 8000ers