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International Mountain Guides (IMG) Lhotse Expedition 2009

Lhotse · 2009 · 봄 (1) · USA

원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on West Face.

The expedition's C4 was pitched at 7927m on the West Face, 200m above the traverse from the Yellow Band and just before the Geneva Spur. From there, their route went straight up to the Turtle rock, below the couloir and to the right of it in order to avoid being hit by rock falling down the couloir, which acts as a chute (actually Vernovage was hit but his helmet protected him for injury.)

The first climbers from this team to reach the top were two Sherpas, Chhewang Lendu and Gyalzen Dorje, who summited on 19 May while fixing 1000m of rope from C4 to the summit.

The member's summit bid was made from C4 by Der Arslanian and Vernovage, the only ones left at BC. Accompanied by Chhewang Lendu, they left C4 at 1:45 am on 20 May, got to the summit at 7:45 am, were back in C4 at 10:45 am and continued down to C2 at 5:30 pm. They arrived at BC on the 21st, left the same day and spent the night at Pangboche. They were in Lukla on the 22nd and Kathmandu on the 23rd.

Non-summiting members:

Abell went to C3 on 18 April, was not strong enough to go higher. Vernovage told him to go down; Abell was not happy about these instructions, but he obeyed and left the team on the 20th.

Adrian and Kierspe went into the Icefall on 21 April, said they loved their wives too much to continue, and left the team on the 23rd.

Clapp never got above BC. He had altitude sickness on the team's arrival at BC on 18 April, left on the 19th for Pheriche, later returned to BC, but got sick again and Vernovage told him to leave, which he did on 1 May.

Oxygen was used by all summiters in C4 to the summit. Der Arslanian, Vernovage and Chhewang Lendu stopped using it on return to C4 while the two members kept it on to C3.

Sherpas:
Chhewang Lendu, 19/4/80, Phortse, Everest X2, Lhotse X1, Cho Oyu X1, Manaslu X1
Gyalzen Dorje, 17/2/88, Phortse, Everest X1

  • 내부 원정 ID6469
  • 원본 EXPIDLHOT09108
  • 대장Greg Vernovage
  • 루트 (Route)W Face
  • 최고 도달고도8516m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용사용
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 8명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Gregory (Greg) VernovageUSALeader성공사용-
David AbellUKClimber---
Lawrence D. (Larry) AdrianUSAClimber---
William Lafayette (Bill) ClappUSAClimber---
Philippe Robin Der ArslanianFranceClimber성공사용-
George Howard KierspeUSAClimber---
Chhewang Lendu (Tsewang Lendu) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-
Gyalzen Dorje (Gyaljen Dorje) SherpaNepalH-A Worker성공사용-

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