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Lhotse Expedition 2009

Lhotse · 2009 · 봄 (1) · Germany

원정 개요

Dujmovits and Kaltenbrunner are married and often climb together and with Takeuchi, not so often with Goettler. On this climb, the four always climbed together, made all bivouacs together and summited on the same day although at different times.

The team had no fixed camps above BC. They began their climb on 26 April. They left BC at 5:00 pm and bivouacked at 6150m, at 8:00 pm. On the 27th they moved up the Western Cwm to 6450m and stayed there two nights. On the 29th they climbed onto the West Face of Lhotse and bivouacked at 7300m. On 1 May they took their two bivvy tents from 7300m back down to 6450m, entrusted them to the C2 cook of IMG's American Everest expedition (led by Eric Simonson), and descended to their own BC tents.

From 1 to 15 May they waited in BC for the very strong winds to die, and for temperature warmer than -30 to -35 C. at 8500m. Finally, on the 17th, they moved up again and got to C2. On the 18th they picked up their bivvy tents and bivouacked again at 7800m at the rock formation known as the Turtle below the bottom of the couloir.

On 20 May they left the bivouac at 4:15 am and climbed to the summit. Kaltenbrunner climbed to 30m below the summit at 11:00 am and waited there for her husband, Dujmovits, for 50 minutes; the temperature was -25 degrees C. and the wind wind was blowing at 30 km/hr. Dujmovits joined her and together they summited at 12:00 noon (they met a New Zealander and a Sherpa at the top). Goettler arrived on the summit at 1:00 pm, and Takeuchi with the Spaniard Xavi Arias were there about one hour later.

They all descended to their bivouac at 7800m for the night. Kaltenbrunner, Dujmovits and Goettler got there at 3:00 pm and Takeuchi, still with Arias, joined them at 6:00 pm. They all continued down to 7300m at 9:00 pm, and all were in BC on the 21st.

  • 내부 원정 ID6467
  • 원본 EXPIDLHOT09106
  • 대장Ralf Dujmovits
  • 루트 (Route)W Face
  • 최고 도달고도8516m
  • 정상 등정 성공예
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유정상 등정 성공 (1)

참가자 4명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Ralf DujmovitsGermanyLeader성공--
David Johannes GoettlerGermanyClimber성공--
Gerlinde KaltenbrunnerAustriaClimber성공--
Hirotaka TakeuchiJapanClimber성공--

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