원정 개요

Majorca Mugu Expedition to Kojichuwa Chuli - 5 May 2009

The team flew from Kathmandu to Nepalgunj and Talcha Valley near Rara Lake by helicopter, then trekked east via Mugu Karnali River and north along Mugu Khola past Mugu village and east to BC, which was at a height of 4750m west of Mugu Chuli (6310m).

They arrived at BC on 17 April and from there made a recce to decide on their actual climbing objective. They looked at Mugu Chuli and Kojichuwa Chuli, which are on the border between Nepal and Tibet, and first examined the West Face of Mugu Chuli, which they found was very steep with many falling seracs and snow avalanches. They moved north, and on 19 April Lopez, Navarro and Dawa Sherpa climbed to the col (5550m) on the border ridge in very loose rock and rocks were falling from it. It could not have been possible to fix this route.

They returned to BC that day and the team decided to abandon their climbing efforts. They think it may be possible to climb the Tibetan (eastern) sides of these mountains, which appeared to be less steep than their western sides, but they didn't like the looks of the western approaches.

While some members waited at BC for horses to take their gear on the 23rd from there to Mugu village, where the team would be reunited, Amengual, Lopez, Navarro and Dawa left BC two days ahead of them, on the 21st, with five porters and went south and southeast along the Kogi Khola to have a look at that area. All members were in Mugu on the 24th, spent four days filming the village and its people, and left on the 29th to return to Kathmandu.

On his way to Mugu from BC, Roibal fell and his body was badly bruised. (This was the team's health problem). They took a helicopter from Gamgadhi village on the Mugu Karnali to Surkhet. They expected to take a bus from Surkhet to Nepalgunj, but a general strike by the people in the area blocked normal traffic for a day, so Roibal and another member travelled by ambulance to Nepalgunj for a scheduled flight to Kathmandu.

Sherpa:
Dawa Sherpa, 1/11/71 (15/7/2028), Tapting-9, Solu, Cho Oyu X1