원정 개요

C1 above 1st Icefall
C2 at Great Shelf.

The successful summiters left C4 for the top at 2:00 am on 18th May. On the final part of their route, at 50-100m below the col between Yalung Kang and the main summit, they turned right together and moved up the SW Face of the main summit to about 8300m and again turned right to get to the top; from here, the members separated as they climbed on "tricky rocks." Latorre was the fastest and summited at 1:45 pm. Izagirre got there at 4:00 pm, Oiarazabal at 4:30 pm and Pasaban with Jangbu at between 5:30 and 6:00 pm.

All of them returned to C4. Latorre waited at 8400m at least an hour to see what happened to the others, then went down to C4 at 9:30-10:00 pm. The others turned up there at about midnight.

Chicon had been a member of the summit party, but was exhausted when he reached 8500m and stopped there. He went down to C4 with Latorre.

On the next day 19 May, Pasaban, Chicon, and Jangbu descended only to C3. Both were very tired. All the others went to C2 that day. Everyone was in BC on the 20th.

The team did not take oxygen with them, but Pasaban and Chicon borrowed some from other teams and used it from C3 to C2. Both had slightly frostbitten fingers are and were exhausted. The other member with health problems was Egocheaga, who reached C4, got pneumonia and cracked some ribs from coughing very hard, and had to retreat.

Sherpas:
Jangbu Sherpa, 19/9/79 (3/6/2036), Kharikhola, Solu, Everest X3


Ferran Latorre on Kangchenjunga summits (via Eberhard Jurgalski) - 2 Feb 2010

"From the Spanish people, only four of us summited: first myself, after Asier Izaguirre, Juanito Oiarzábal and Edurne Pasaban, together with one Sherpa (the other Sherpa from our team, turned around about 8400m). Finally, Kinga Baranowska topped about half hour after Edurne. I topped about 3 hours before of my friends and went down till 8400m, the place I call 'Bivouac stone', where I waited to watch out my friends.

Coque Lasa and Patxi turned around on the Bivouac stone. Alex Txicon unfortunately turned around few meters before the Rappel and came down to my position to watch out our friends. Juanjo Garra, who was climbing together with Kinga Baranowska, turned around just before the Rappel, when they crossed at that point with Edurne's team who was going down from summit. In a slow walk, the Rappel is about 20-30 minutes from summit. Kinga followed alone to the summit. She has very good footage from the summit. She really was tough to follow alone so late!"