원정 개요

The team flew to Nepalgunj on 4 Aug and next day to Juphal, then trekked to BC via Dunai, Ringmo and Samduwa to BC beside Chalugai Tal (lake) on 14 August.

On the 15th they all made high camps at 5300m. On the 16th, Beranger stayed in high camp because it was snowing and he was tired. The other five members, plus Pemba Jangbu, left high camp for the summit at 5:30 am. After climbing about 200m above the camp in one hour, Schadt-Minelli turned back: she didn't like the snow-covered crevasses, and she was tired.

The remaining four members kept climbing and reached the summit at 9:30 am on the 16th. They had encountered three pitches of seracs and a small icefall with crevasses on the glacier before the start of the SE Ridge. They had avoided an area of bad rock at the bottom of the ridge. The ridge itself not steep.

The summiters rejoined the others at high camp afater an hour's descent from the top. They packed up the camp and returned to BC at 3:00 pm.

They are confident that they were the first people anywhere near their route. They found no traces of earlier attempts.

Sherpa:
Pemba Jangbu Sherpa, 16/2/86 (5/11/2042), Bupsa, Jubing-5, Solu,
Makalu 1/5/08 and Broad Peak 30/7/09, he said