원정 개요

The expedition had only one camp above ABC because of frequent bad weather and they made just one bid to get to the summit.

All members except Bucic, Dicic and Jovovic, plus all ten of their Sherpas, left C1 at 7150m to try to go to the summit at 12 o'clock noon (Chinese time) on 27 May. They made a late start because earlier the wind was very strong; the weather forecast they received from Switzerland predicted that the wind would drop in the afternoon. However it got stronger and stronger, reaching 80 km/hr, when they had gained only 600m in altitude, and they were driven back to C1 at 7:00 pm.

They remained in C1 on the 28th. Jacimovic decided that evening to abandon the climb. They retreaed to ABC on the 29th while the wind was still strong and snow had begun falling. One meter of snow fell from the 28th to 30th, so the fixed ropes were covered and difficult to dig out. Their time was running out. They arrived in BC on the 30th and left it on 2 June.

Oxygen was used by all members in the summit bid from C1 to their high point 7750m, and back to C1. Their Sherpas used none.

Non-summiting members

Bucic reached North Col but did not stay there on 21 May and returned to ABC. She was not strong enough to continue.

Dicic followed the same pattern as Bucic.

Jovovic got no higher than ABC. On 29 April, while climbing on the moraine between ABC and BC, he fell and broke his knee. He left the expedition on the 30th.

Sherpas:
Ang Gelu, 28/4/86 (15/1/2043), Phedi-9, Khotang, no 8000ers
Chheten Dorje, 28/5/87, Pangboche, Everest X1
Lhakpa, 24/8/66, Makalu-2, Everest X1
Lhakpa Chhiri, aka Sonam Gyalzen, 17/11/74, Pangboche, Everest X5, K2 X1
Mingma Nuru, 20/12/75, Thami, Everest X2
Nima Tamang, 1979, Pangboche, Everest X1
Nima Thundu, 20/4/80, Pangboche, Everest X1
Nurbu Bhote Lama, 29/5/81, Hatiya-1, Makalu, Everest X2
Thendorje, 22/4/83, Pangboche, Everest X5, Manaslu X1