한국산악아카이브 | KOREA MOUNTAIN ARCHIVE

본문 바로가기

히말라얀 데이터베이스

⌂ 처음 화면
← 산의 원정 기록

German Baruntse Expedition

Baruntse · 1990 · 봄 (1) · W Germany

원정 개요

BC across Barun Glacier from point 5750m on rocks leading to steep ice towards
Sherpani Col
C1 at east of point 6480m southwest of point 6680m.

Expected to have team of 5 Germans but 3 came after Eitel and Brackmann and decided not to go to Baruntse. Big problem to arrive at BC because of deep snow beyond Sedua. Brackmann never went above BC because very weak. This left Eitel with only cook to climb with (cook was a Sherpa and insured for altitude, but had no knowledge of climbing). Made C1 and deposit beyond it at start of SE Ridge; Eitel hoped Brackmann could climb after rope fixed to C1 but when returned to BC Eitel found Brackmann unable to climb at all. 10-11 April Eitel and cook had come to C1 and made deposit on lower glacier towards S Ridge and then down to BC on 11 April and 14 April to C1 and deposit to bring back all equipment.

Day-to-day Eitel's movements:
7th April - all arrive BC
8th April - Eitel and cook made C1
9th April - down to BC
10th April - Eitel and cook to C1
11th April - Eitel and cook to deposit and back to BC
12th April - all in C except Brackmann who leaves for KTM
13th April - in BC
14th April - Eitel and cook up to clear gear; sleep C1
15th April - down to BC

Eitel and staff left BC 18 April as originally scheduled.

  • 내부 원정 ID642
  • 원본 EXPIDBARU90101
  • 대장Hans Eitel
  • 루트 (Route)SE Ridge
  • 최고 도달고도6500m
  • 정상 등정 성공아니오
  • 산소 사용미사용·확인 필요
  • 종료 사유기술적 난이도 (10)

참가자 2명

이름국적역할정상 등정산소사망
Hans Volker EitelW GermanyLeader---
Uwe BrackmannW GermanyClimber---

출처·참고문헌

Hawley, Elizabeth · 1990 · 학술지·저널 (2) · AAJ
http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12199121702/Asia-Nepal-Baruntse-Attempt · 1990 · 웹사이트 (5) ·