원정 개요

The expedition divided the members into two summit parties. The first one left C4 for the top at 11:05 am on the 18th. They were Griber, Moffatt, Norton, Viesturs, Whittaker and nine Sherpas: Pasang Tendi, Nima Gyalzen, Pemba Nuru, Pasang Dawa, Nawang Lhakpa, Kazi Sherpa, Mingma Dupka, Dawa Jongba and Changba Nurbu. All the members and eight Sherpas summited on 19 May between 7:37 am (Griber with Kazi) and 9:00 am (Moffatt with Nawang Lhakpa) and 10:00 am for Mingma Dukpa. Changba Nuru had turned back at the bottom of the Hillary Step because he was extremely tired from all the load carrying he had done, and retreated to C4. All the summiters also stayed in C4 that night, and all except Moffatt descended to BC the next day, the 20th; Moffatt, who had one slightly frostbitten toe, stopped in C2 on the 20th.

The second summit party were Arnot, Hahn, Harvey, Waterfall and six Sherpas: Nga Tenji, Ang Kaji, Tshering Dorje, Kami Nuru, Nima Dorje Tamang and Ang Phurba. They left C4 at 11:30 pm on the 22nd and all of the members and five Sherpas were on the top at 6:30 am on 23 May. Ang Phurbu had turned back just above the Balcony because his feet were cold, and he went down to C2. All the others in this party also descended to C2 that day; they reached the camp at 4:00 pm. All were back in BC the next day, the 24th.

Oxygen used by the first summit party: all the members except Viesturs used it in C3 to the top to and in C4 except Griber and Norton. Viesturs started using oxygen in C4 and kept on it until he reached C2; Griber and Norton stopped using it when they got back to C4. All Sherpas used it to their high points to and in C4.

In the second summit party, all members and Sherpas from C3 to their high points to C2.

Non-summiting member:

Dohring reached about 7240m on 14 May, but did not stay in C3 and never went higher. She was not strong enough to do so.

Fixed rope: 600m on Lhotse Face

Sherpas:
Ang Kazi/Kaji, 21/8/84 (5/5/2041), Kharikhola, Jubing-1, Solu, Everest X2
Ang Phurba, 26/8/67, Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Cho Oyu X4, Everest X2
Went to Everest with an independent S Korean climber, Lee Won-Sub, who
abandoned his climb early and was picked up by Adventure Consultants team
from BC
Changba Nurbu, 1964, Tate, Chaurikharka-7, Everest X7, Cho Oyu X1, Dhaula X1
Dawa Jongba/Jambu, 2/10/75 (6/16/2035), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, no 8000ers
Kazi Sherpa, 29/5/71, Tapting-9, Solu, Everest 22/5/08
Kami Nuru, 26/8/85 (5/10/2042), Chaurikharka, Solu, no 8000ers
Mingma Dukpa, 15/6/80, Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
Nawang Lhakpa, 17/1/72 (3/10/2028), Choplung, Chaurikharka-3, Everest X3
Nga Tenji, 28/2/80 (16/11/2036), Nurbugaon, Makalu-9, Everest X3
Nima Dorje Tamang, aka "Kala", 8/1/80 (24/9/2036), Chitre, Bakachol-9, Khotang,
Everest X3
Nima Gyalzen, 31/8/86 (15/5/2043), Ghat, Chaurikharka-7, Solu, Everest X3
Pasang Dawa, 26/5/87 (12/2/2044), Syangma, Chaurikharka-7, Solu, no 8000ers
Pasang Tendi, 27/10/83 (10/7/2040), Yaphu-9, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X6
Pemba Nuru, 17/1/77 (4/10/2033), Thamiteng, Khumbu, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X1
Tshering Dorje, 3/3/89 (11/20/2045), Beding, Dolakha, Everest X1