원정 개요

BC on opposite side of Chago Glacier and slightly below high BC for normal route
C1 near where ice begins on West Ridge
C2 in ice cave on ridge before pillar proper
C3 where rock gets steep: start of West Pillar proper
C4 at top of steep rock.

Fixed 9500 ft rope from C1 to C4 (almost entire route). 1st summit bid on 16th May by [Shutt], Calhoun and Grissom and reached 8100m but wind drove them back. Grissom now coughing badly so he descended while Calhoun stayed at C4 to rest and try again 2 days later. Luckily weather good on 18th and started up at 1:30 am in light snowfall but little wind; snowfall stopped but cloudy and misty. Strong wind at summit at 11:45 am and back to C4 at 4:45 pm. Safe route but lot of technical climbing. No avalanche or rock fall. All members reached C3. Left BC 24th May.