원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse Face
C4 at South Col.

Aulestia and Monedero established BC on 15 April. Diez went first to Island Peak, which he summited on 13 April, then stayed briefly at Chhukung village because his left foot was painful; he got to BC on the 18th.

On 19 April Monedero pitched C1; the other two members arrived at C1 the next day while Monedero went up to C2's site and down to BC. On the 21st Aulestia descended to BC because she had a cough, Diez went to C2's site and back to BC.

All three members established C2 together in the Western Cwm on 26 April. The next day Diez and Mondero went to the bottom of the West Face of Lhotse while Aulestia remained in C2. On the 28th, all three made C3 on the Lhotse face at 7300m. On the 29th, Mondero first climbed up to 7600m on the face, then descended with his teammates to BC.

Now the weather turned bad and they descended to the villages to wait for it to improve before going for the summit.

On 14 May Monedero returned to BC; Aulestia and Diez followed on the 15th. Now they were set for the push to the summit, but they did not all go up on the same day because they had only two two-man tents, so they had to move on different dates. Monedero and Dawa Gyalzen started first: on 16 May they climbed up to C2, on the 17th to C3, and made C4 on the 18th. They left C4 at 10:30 that night and reached the summit at 10:30 am on 19th May. They descended to C2 on the 20th and to BC on the 21st.

The other two members and their Sherpas moved up from BC to C2 on the 17th, to C3 to the 18th, and to C4 on the 19th. They left C4 for the top at 9:00 pm on the 19th. Diez and Pemba Chhoti made it to the summit at 7:00 am on the 20 May and back to C4 at 11:00 am. But Aulestia went no higher than 8600m (above the Balcony), which she reached at 9:30 am, and then decided it was too late for her to go to the top. She, and Pasang Gyalzen with her, turned back and got to C4 at 1:00 pm. All four descended to C2 on the 21st and to BC on the 22nd.

Diez and Monedero got frostnip on their fingers and toes.

Oxygen was used by Aulestia and Diez from 7500m to high points to 7500m. Monedero used it from 8400m to the summit to 8500m. Dawa Gyalzen used it from 7800m to C4 carrying a heavy load and from C4 to top to C4. Pasang Gyalzen and Pemba Chhoti used it from C4 to the top to C4.

Sherpas:
Dawa Gyalzen, 10/5/86, Beding, Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1
Pasang Gyalzen, 30/9/64, Walung, Makalu, Cho Oyu X2, Xixabangma X1,
Dhaulagiri I X1
Pemba Chhoti Sherpa, 27/1/81, Beding, Everest X6