원정 개요

High point at 7820m.

On 30 April they had occupied C3. The next day they descended to BC to wait for favorable weather, especially for the wind to abate.

On 16 May they started up again. They had to go to C2 on the same day because their tent at C1 had been destroyed. On the 18th they climbed to C3, and on 19 May they set out for the South Col. But they turned around at 7820m, at the Geneva Spur, at 3:00 pm because it was now too late for them to reach the Col and returned to C3.

On the 20th they abandoned their climb and descended to BC. They felt that, as they were climbing without oxygen, it was too dangerous for them to go for the summit immediately, and once they were down in BC, the weather would deteriorate and they would run out of time.