원정 개요

C1 at top of Icefall
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 on Lhotse face
C4 at South Col
High point at South Summit for Byrne (Sherpas to summit).

Byrne and three Sherpas left C4 for the summit at 8:00 pm on 19 May. Nima Gombu and Lhakpa moved faster than Byrne and Tshering Pande and summited at 9:30 am on 20 May. Byrne arrived at the South Summit at 10:30 am on the 20th and could go no farther. He was exhausted. The summit Sherpas rejoined Byrne and Tshering Pande at about 10:45 am, and they all went down to C4 to stay that night. They descended to C2 on the 21st and to BC on the 22nd.

Byrne was still extremely tired, having made a rapid descent to BC, and furthermore all of his toes were frostbitten (he hopes they will heal, but all are black). On the 24th he went to Pheriche and flew to by helicopter to Kathmandu with Lhakpa.

I saw Byrne on the 24th, and when I visited his hotel a few days later to see another expedition, he was still there in the lobby, just sitting and waiting for time to pass. He hoped to leave at the end of the June.

Byrne and his three Sherpas used oxygen. Byrne used it from C3 to the South Summit to and in C2. Lhakpa used it from C3 to C4 with Byrne, to the summit and down to C2. Nima Gombu and Tshering Pande used it from C4 to top to C4.

Sherpas:
Lhakpa Sherpa, 24/12/73, Gangahiti, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
Nima Gombu Sherpa, 23/1/69 (10/10/2025), Beding, Everest X13, Cho Oyu X3
Tshering Pande Bhote, 20/2/78, Hatiya-1, Sankhuwasabha, Everest X5, Cho Oyu X2