원정 개요

BC above junction of glacier (Messner camp)
C1 above icefall
C2 at bottom of couloir below Makalu La
C3 at Makalu La
C4 below couloir on last steep slope.

Left BC 29th April to C2, 30th to C3; 1st May [Ducoli, Bonali, Guzza and Lhakpa Gyalzen] tried direct for top and got to 8150m; too late, returned to C3. 2nd May made C4 [at 7800m] for 2nd attempt, Lhakpa Gyalzen then descended to C3.

3rd May Ducoli, Bonali and Guzza tried for summit and reached 8300m, when fog and fresh snow preventing seeing where to go. 4th May Guzza to BC, while Bonali waited in C3 for Ducoli solo attempt from C4; he reached only 7900-8000m on 4th May, too tired and gave up, down to C3. 5th May Bonali and Ducoli to BC. All to BC 5th May and left BC 6th May. No more climbing.

These men were team's strongest and needed few day's rest and all had to return to homes and jobs. This first time in Himalaya for all members and they learned a lot.