원정 개요

BC at normal high BC at glaciers' junction
C1 on glacier
C3 at Makalu Col
C4 at NW Ridge.

Reached C3 early but built it up only 4th May in final stage of climb. On 6th May, Hara, Onishi, Ang Babu Sherpa and Nima Dorje Sherpa went up from C4. Hara and Ang Babu turned back from 8300m when Hara's oxygen pressure failed. Onishi and Nima Dorje continued on to summit.

On May 2 Polish woman to C3. 7th May failed to reach C4 because windy and snow falling; 8th May to C4. 9th May tried for summit but again very windy and Wanda said C4 very low for their oxygenless ascent and turned back to BC same day. No more tents for C5 so 10th May C1 brought down.

Jap and Polish BC - 5300m
Polish C1 - 6500m
Jap and Polish C2 - 6850m
Polish C3 - 7250m
Jap C4 - 7500m

Poles left 2 tents in KTM at Japanese statement they had enough tents, but their tents were heavy, for 4 persons, and not enough light tents to make a C5. Wanda reached 7550m 9th, according to Wanda's altimeter and Ewa. Then to BC 10th and again Wanda up alone. How high, she won't say; apparently higher than 7550m but apparently not to summit [Josef Nyka says women reached 7900m].

Polish women were very unhappy about Japanese men's altitude: "they did everything to prevent our success." After Ohnishi reached summit, they declared expedition was over and Poles not allowed to go up the mountain again. Threatened to get Tourism Ministry to ban them if they did go up and may make a complaint to Ministry, which is why Wanda refused to say how high she reached.

"Two different styles." Poles, no Sherpas, no oxygen, tried to be a separate team.