원정 개요

Traa started summit push on 19 May from C1. He reached C2 in afternoon of 20 May. On 21 May he left C2 at lunch time and reached C3 at 9 pm. He rested there for a while and carried on climbing at 1 am on 22 May. He climbed fast to 2nd Step, where he arrived at about 9:30 am. Afterwards he slowed down significantly. He took off his rucksack and left it at about 8700m. He felt very confused. When he saw the bad weather come in he decided to turn back at about 8800m. When he was just about 2nd Step he got into his bivouac bag and lay down to sleep. The next morning (23 May) he continued to descend and reached near C3 at nightfall. He did not reach the tents (he could not see them) and spent another night outside in bivouac bag. On 24 May he reached C3. It was only about 50m from where he was. He got into empty tent and rested there for 1 hour.

When he got out of tent and started descending he met 2 Sherpas (didn't know which team they were with) who he descended to C2 with. Traa's tent at C2 had been removed and he had no facilities to make tea. He and Sherpas continued to C1 same day, where the 2 Sherpas gave him food, oxygen and shelter. They also noticed at C1 that he had frostbite.

On 25 May he descended to ABC. He was helped down halfway off North Col by other Norwegian team. He reached ABC some time before noon and was immediately transported to BC by yak. On the same evening he took jeep to Kathmandu.

He reached Kathmandu on 26 May and went straight to CIWEC, where they kept him stationary for 3 nights. Doctors at CIWEC say he may keep all toes, but may lose a few fingertips.