원정 개요

BC at normal site
C1 just below the hump
C2 at lower 1/3 of upper icefall
C3 at top of upper icefall just below Great Shelf
C4 just below sickle in gangway.

Did not have resources to stock a 5th camp since they had no Sherpas. C4 established by Bercaw and Miller and all others helped carry up supplies but in night of 14th only Udall and Gustke occupied camp while 4 others returned to C3. Udall and Gustke left C4 at 2:30 am in clear, calm and cold weather but with bad snow conditions: crusted with snow underneath to mid-calf hence much slower progress than expected: top of gangway reached only 11 am at 27000 ft. Gustke's oxygen ran out this point. Udall went ahead of him rapidly, Gustke stopped at 8400m and descended 100m to wait for Udall, who was now out of sight. Udall plodded up in mixed rock snow which was slow but not steep; on top at 4:45 pm in sunny weather, calm on south side; stayed 5 minutes on top. Reached Gustke at 7 pm; it was dark and freezing and took 5 hrs to get to C4 (only had one head lamp that worked and wind had come up and obliterate track); found 7-8 ft high pole (red and white) perhaps left by Soviets. BC to C1 some water ice was more difficult than expected and fixed 2000 ft here; otherwise not difficult technically. Used a safer but more indirect route. Was some avalanche danger not requiring longer route.