원정 개요

According to Czech climber Fojtik, Etemadfar left C3 at 11:30 pm on 30 April with Fojtik. Ahead of Etemadfar and Fojtik there were Koreans opening the route and fixing the line. They were very slow and it was very cold. Instead of waiting in the cold both went back to C3. Etemadfar and Fojtik started again from C3 at 2 am of 1 May. They were followed by Findik and his Sherpa Dawa. Koreans ran out of ropes at about 7900m around lunch time and they stop moving. Having reached that point Etemadfar, Fojtik, Findik and Dawa decided to continue on their own. For a while one of the Korean members also joined them and he returned to his team who were very slow to follow the advancing climbers. Weather started getting bad, strong wind and snowfall around 2:30 pm. It became complete white-out and dark. The Turkish climber Findik said that Etemadfar was about 50m behind him when he reached to the summit couloir. Findik went to the summit after that he did not see Etemadfar. Fojtik started skiing down from about 20m below of the beginning of the summit couloir. The weather was still cloudy and dark. Skiing in poor visibility, Fojtik passed Etemadfar near rocky place (about 8050m) before the beginning of the summit couloir. He reached C2 at 9 pm slept there. Next day Fojtik realized that Etemadfar was missing. He started recalling what he had seen the previous day that he saw Etemadfar falling down from the place where he passed him. At that moment he was not thinking of his fall due to confusion in poor visibility and tiredness.