원정 개요

BC at normal site -(Pangpema)
2nd C2 at safer place in crevasse
Temp at highest site possible in strong wind - N Ridge
Final camp 3 also on North Ridge below the "castle"
High point little below North Ridge at bottom of Couloir.

10 days of bad weather in late April and early May and during this period friction arose between Poles and Basques because of uneven abilities: Tomas did outstanding job of fixing ice wall. Alduz the other experienced Basque lost interest in climb after avalanche. 2 others very young and one of them twice had acclimatization problem; inexperienced Basques had no experience carrying loads. Communication difficult between Basque and Poles: Basques wanted to make summit attack in a large party which meant low last camp, cramped in tents, poor sleep, etc. Team made to 7600-7800m and forced back by bad weather. Spaniards had fixed departure date from Nepal and had to hurry: wouldn't wait for making C4, instead made summit push from C3 which failed; this was only summit bid because weather continued to be bad with heavy clouds and snowfall. Basques informed leader very late that they had to leave BC on 15th May. Another problem was that other 2 Polish women wanted to climb only with Basques. Czerwinska and Palmowska were in C3 on 13th waiting to go up on 14th to make a C4 and go for top, but on 14th windy and cloudy. Actual summit attack began at 10:00 pm on 12th in wind.

Actually was possible for Basques to stay beyond 15th May: on 16th Tomas and Ochoa actually decided to try push to top and went up from BC for one hour & then decided loads too heavy. Communication problem was not language problem but younger climbers did not listen to older Polish leaders, who had climbed with Aldaz on Makalu and counted on him to be communicator, but when he had narrow miss with big avalanche of seracs, he lost interest in climb and stayed mostly in BC, went no higher (and wanted to go no higher) than C1.

Summit bid of 12/13 May by Kaploniak, Larregui, Ochoa, Patynowska and Tomas, all of whom reached 7600m. Ochoa got highest at 7800m and others varying altitudes in between.