원정 개요

The members of the summit party were: Barbour, Delstanche, Jaeggi, Mazur, Ruszuly, Tulit, Voutselas, Gyalze and Jangbu Sherpas and Tashi (Tibetan). They started their push for the top from C2 at 9:00 pm (Chinese time) on 23 May.

At 5:00 am on the 24th Jaeggi, Ruszuly and Tulit got to C3, which was pitched that day and used only temporarily, and, together with the Gyalze, Jangbu and Tashi, they stopped there because the three members were exhausted. They stayed in C3 until the next morning. At 2:00 am on the 25th Bliss and Gaillard came up to C3 and then climbed 100m above the camp, but at 3:00 am turned back to the camp because it was too windy for them. They descended to C2, went down to C1 on the 26th and ABC on the 27th.

Meanwhile the remaining four members, Barbour, Delstanche, Mazur and Voutselas, plus Jangbu and Tashi had continued their summit push and were on the top at 3:30 pm (1:15 NST) on the 24th [Barbour stopped at the summit plateau]. Mazur, Voutselas and Jangbu descended to C2 at 11:30 pm on the 24th, to ABC on the 25th. Barbour, Delstanche and Tashi stopped in C3 at 10:00 pm on the 24th, in C2 on the 25th and reached ABC on the 26th.

Other non-summiting members:

Johnson went to C1 on 8 May, on the 11th climbed to 6900m, turned back to ABC the same day because of an inflammation in her leg and left the expedition on the 12th.

Ricci got to C2 on 12 May and again on 21 May, but a storm drove him down to ABC on the 22nd.

Urizar went to C3 on the 23rd, but it became very uneasy about the climb and retreated to C2 that day, but on the 24th returned to C3 but again went back to C2 that day.

Wilkerson, a knee surgeon, climbed to C1 on 8 May, but on the 10th he had to retreat from C1 to ABC because he had broken his plastic knee. He left the team on the 11th.

Oxygen was used by the summit party's Barbour, Delstanche, Mazur and Voutselas in C2 to the summit; Barbour used it down all the way to C1, while the other three stopped its use at C2; and Jaeggi, Ruszuly and Tulit used none at all. Urizer used it on 22 May from C2 to C3, then down as long as it lasted. None of their Sherpas used oxygen at any time.

Sherpas:
Gyalze, 25/1/74, Patle, Okhaldhunga, no 8000ers
Jangbu, 24/5/67, Patle, Okhaldhunga, Everest X4, Cho Oyu X2, Lhotse X1

Tibetan:
Tashi, 22 yrs (in 2nd year at Tibetan Mtn School), Tingri Nachu, Cho Oyu X1