원정 개요

The expedition's progress was halted by a big storm of wind and snow which pinned them down in ABC for about a week.

The summit push was made from C3 on 2 June when three members and three Sherpas left at 2:00 am (Nepal time). They were Neefjes, Verhoeve and Van den Bos, plus Ang Dorchi, Dawa Gelu and Pasang. The first to reach the summit were Van den Bos, who was very fast and always ahead of the others and Dawa Gelu. They were there at 10:30 am. The other two members and two Sherpas, Neefjes and Verhoeve with their two Sherpas, Ang Dorchi and Pasang, summited much later, at 1:00 pm, having climbed moved much more slowly.

Van den Bos and Dawa Gelu returned to C3 at 2:30 pm, rested and descended to C2, where they arrived at 5:00 pm. Neefjes was now very tired, her oxygen supply had run out shortly before she reached the summit, and she was unaware of the passage of time. Ang Dorchi was with or near her in her descent. It was 1:00 or 2:00 pm when they arrived in C3. They rested here, then went on down to C1.5, where they stopped at 9:00 pm. It was not until she got to ABC the next day that Neefjes realized that she had three frostbitten fingers; the ends are black but she expects them to heal.

In their descent, Pasang was 20 minutes ahead of Verhoeve when the Dutchman suddenly fell from 7600m to 7500m at the bottom of the Yellow Band and was killed. The cause of his fall is not known. Pasang was sent up the next day to locate the body but not to move it, and there is no plan to move it in the future. It will remain there, lying down, until the elements send it down the mountain.

Non-summiting members:

De Bos, the leader, stayed in ABC throughout the climb.

Kossen reached C2 on 18 May, but not fit enough to continue the ascent.

Van Hassel was in C3 for the summit bid, but he was not feeling well on the 2nd and remained in C3.

Oxygen was used by two members: Van Hassel from C1 to C3 but not in these camps. Neefjes from C2 to C3 and from C3 to about 8150m, when her supply ran out. Sherpas used none.

Summit Sherpas:
Ang Dorchi, 7/11/78, Makalu-4, no 8000ers
Dawa Gelu, 18/1/83, Sedua, Makalu-4 [Everest X2, Cho Oyu X1]
Pasang Sherpa, 18/5/80, Sedua, Makalu-4, no 8000ers