원정 개요

BC at top of icefall
C2 in Cwm
C3 on West Face of Lhotse
C4 at South Col
High point at SE Ridge.

1st summit attempt on 28th did not go above C4 because of wind, so down to BC with Americans who were also in C4. Had pitched C4 on 22nd but did not sleep there; again to C4 7th May; weather on 7th unsettled; slept there night of 6th & started up on 7th with his 3 Sherpas. Oxygen regulator leaking at the start and after 2 hours bottle nearly empty at 8200m in no wind. Took a Sherpa's regulator (Sherpas to use oxygen at 8500m at 5:00 am when bottle empty and down to C4 at 6:00 am because Sherpa refused to climb without oxygen. Karl wanted to try without oxygen but too dangerous to go alone with no one from other teams at C4. Hhad no funds to buy new regulator and more oxygen ($300 for 1 bottle from Americans). Karl will return in autumn and climb without oxygen.