원정 개요

BC at right side of lake
C1 just over West Col
High point at C1.

Three expedition members, Mazza, Pellizzari and Santagiuliana left BC on 12 May to make C1; they had no Sherpa helpers. They established C1 at 6100m, just across the West Col on its eastern side, slept there, and returned to BC the next day. The other four members had helped carry loads on 11 May, reached 5950m, dumped their loads, and went no higher.

None of the climbers went down above BC again. A snowstorm with strong winds hit them, and with crevasse now full of new snow and hidden from sight, it was too dangerous to resume climbing immediately. They had no time to wait for better condition. They decided on 15 May to abandon the climb and left BC the next.