원정 개요

The team flew from Kathmandu on 16 April to Tumlingtar, trekked north to Makalu's Hillary BC, went northwest to the moraine of the Barun Glacier to a point due to north of the Sherpani Col, then westwards to temporary BC on 27 April at 5180m. On 27 April at 5180m. On the 30th they mde their ABC at 5335m on a shelf northwest of their temporary BC and north of Peak 4 (6730m, which itself is due north of the West Col).

ABC functioned at their base. They had no fixed camps above it, only bivouacs as they moved up and down searching for a feasible new route. On 6 May, they bivouacked on the East Ridge at 5975m, and on the 8th on a shelf below the NE Face at 6000m. They climbed onto a rib on the NE Face to 6400m for their third bivouac.

A snowstorm pinned them down in the third bivouac until 14 May. They tried to go higher on the 14th, but Miller was developing cerebral edema. Butson reconnoitered 185m higher [on a rib of the NE Face], saw hanging glaciers very difficult to surmount or very exposed to try to get around. They abandoned this route and on the 15th descended to ABC, Butson and Clark helping Miller down.

On the 18th, Butson and Clark tried a different line. They attempted to climb the East Face and got up to 5550m at the base of a glacier. Butson called off this attempt because he would be too tired to help Clark down if Clark had a problem. They went back to ABC and their climb of Baruntse was over.

They left ABC on the 20th and descended directly to the area where Makalu expeditions had their base camps. From there they trekked for four days to Tumlingtar and flew to Kathmandu on the 27th.

Besides Miller's edema, the only other health problems was Clark's mildly frostbitten toes.