원정 개요

C1 (never occupied)
C2 in Western Cwm
C3 at South Col

Walked from Bay of Bengal starting 5th Feb; went extra 300 km because India border crossing point had expected to use was closed.

Swiss on W Ridge needed more rope, thus Tim and 2 Sherpas (hired to carry film into Cwm) helped them carry it to Lho La and on up their C2 site and on top of W Shoulder at 7400m, where Tim spent night of 22 April to acclimatize; had good look at Tim's interested route. Then down directly into Cwm thinking route looked good but was windy (met Zabaleta and Habeler on ridge). Hornbein Couloir became dangerous because of snowfall and slab avalanche danger, which turned Swiss back.

On 8th May Tim decided to go for S Col route and on 9th May from C2 to Col during night and got to Col 9th morning; didn't feel good about going to top that day but on 10th at 10:00 pm left Col for top; Lapkass had left at 9:00 pm; Tim caught up with him at 2:00 am; Swede Mickey caught up with both of them at S Summit at 6:00 am; reached top at 9:45 am; other 2 within 20 minutes.

S Col route much harder work than N Face but from S Summit is very enjoyable.

Tim: "If I hadn't been committed so much to summit, might have tried harder on W Ridge."