원정 개요

BC at bottom of Khumbu Icefall
C1 at Lho La
C3 at beginning of shoulder
High point at SE Ridge.

When returned to C2 on 10th May, found much snow blown onto route, waist-deep snow (which buried fixed ropes) and avalanche danger so decided at C2 to abandon West Ridge attempt.

Then to South Col route, using American's Sherpas cook at their team's food for Swiss. At Col 15th May 11:00 pm (start) with only warm clothing to carry; arrived Col 1:00 pm 16th after 3 hrs stop to eat at C3. 3 American Sherpas took down American C3 and Steininger down with them. 16th Boesch and Fuster started up from Col 8:30-9:00 pm and reached 8200m at 11:00-1130 pm, then turned back because some wind from top (not very strong but constant) and no shelter to take off and massage freezing toes and five more hours until sun up to make temperature warmer; so gave up in order to avoid serious frostbite. Slept few hours at Col, then down to BC on 17th, through unmaintained icefall where route had collapsed in some places. By now American's Sherpas had cleared C2 in Cwm. No chance to go up because Sherpas leaving 19th-20th and Swiss had gone up to Col too soon after ridge climb. Reason for cold toes was insufficient rest before going to Col. Swiss had made arrrangements with Americans for them to leave supplies and tents for Swiss to use and American's Sherpas agreed to stay and help until 19th May.


Expedition Report

11.3: Arrival in KTM with all members and all equipment
11.3-15.3: shopping in KTM
15.3: shopping in KTM
15.3: by bus to Jiri
16.3-28.3: approach Jiri - BC weather partially bad
28.3-29.3: installing BC
30.3-11.4: lining ropes up to Lho La climbing difficulties in the rock
up to 6-7 weather very bad
10 -10.4: storm in BC destroyed some tents
12.4: C1 established on Lhola, - 6100m
13.4-18.4: lining ropes up to C2 (6850m)
20.4: established C2 (2 tents)
21.4: carrying equipment up to the shoulder (depot in 7200m) not
bottle oxygen
22.4-24.4: rest days in BC
25.4-26.4: list by all 6 members attempt up to 6550m, cancelled in snowstorm
27.4- 6.5: bad weather, rest days.
7.5: second attempt of all members; C1
8.5: 2 members returned, the others up to C2, hard step breaking
in new snow which was crusted.
9.5: step breaking in new snow up to the depot on the shoulder after
reaching the shoulder Fuster and Ott returned, C3 in 7250m.
10.5: step breaking in wind pressed snow along the shoulder,
increasing avalanche danger heavy bags because of alpine style.
The last two members returned after reaching 7450m descent to C2.
11.5: carry down all the equipment of C2 because in the slide down
to the Lho La was more then (in snow, wind)
12.5: descent to BC
13.5-14.5: resting in BC, asking the Ministry of Tourism for permission
to go on the southeast ridge route, the American expedition
offered us to use their tents.
15.5: ascent up to C2 (Steininger, Bosch and Fuster)
16.5: ascent up to South Col (Bosch and Fuster) and start in the
evening of to go to summit, after reached at altitude from 8200m.
17.5: descent down to BC
15.5-17.5: cleaning the Lho La - rock (taking out all hired ropes and
bringing down all equipment)
20:5: depart from BC
24.5-25.5: back in KTM (Lukla), everybody in good health.

Kathmandu 24.5.90 by Bedi Fuster.