원정 개요

BC at moraine of Chago Glacier just north of glacier's junction
C1 at start of Chago Glacier on rocks in center
C2 at start of steep section below Makalu La
C3 at Makalu La
C4 on NW Ridge
High point at C4.

[6 May entire team plus two Sherpas set out from BC to C2 for first summit attempt. Next day Deuber and Joos stopped bid because too cold, while rest of team continued to C3. 8 May to C4 at 7800m while two Sherpas descended to C2 [not strong enough]. That night high winds damaged C4 tents.] 9th May all down to BC.

3 days snow and wind fierce storm. Blew over BC mess tent. 15th May 4 members and 2 Sherpas up to C2. 16th May Dacher down to BC exhausted and later same day Dujmovits down ill. 17th May 2 Hupfauers and 2 Sherpas up from C2. Gaby Hupfauer turned back at 7100m and others at 7250m when Sherpas not so strong; no summit for them. All in BC 17th May and climb finished. Weather bad (snow and wind) and more storms coming. Team left BC 21 May.

Although Swiss had separate equipment, they did climb together with Germans and 2 Swiss; Graf and Weber pitched C4 together at 7800m.

When Italians left BC 6th May Germans were going for summit attempt.

Swiss return KTM this week, go to Karakoram.
Germans have more time, leave Nepal 2nd June.


Giacomelli - 15 March

Germans and Swiss separate teams using different styles:

Germans establish series of camps, will use Italians C4 at 7800m.
Norbert Joos to try summit alpine style, up to C2, down, up to C4, down.