원정 개요

BC at normal site near road
ABC at Main Rongbuk site
C2 used US camps (Todd Burleson's expedition)
Biv at West Ridge
High point at West Ridge.

Saleki's ABC between Burleson's ABC and C1; gave "too much love" and hospitality to Habeler, Zabeleta and Burleson. Finally allowed them permission to climb W Ridge, let them use Saleki's ropes and still big problems with them (especially the ethics of commercial expedition, on which leader had to teach members ice climbing at BC and members were guided on every step). They threatened to write against Saleki and "finish him" if he didn't let them to take over his route and thus ruining his plan & devout wish to be alone in his route; promised him $1000 for his lost equipment but didn't pay. They didn't expect their members to get above Saleki's C1. Habeler & Zabeleta were paid $15,000 each to guide clients.

Saleki's Sherpas left expedition before C1 established. About 10th March they left after one carry above ABC. Saleki then overwhelmed by American team, who scrapped his plans for camp locations. He then slept in US C1 when they were not there and went to top of spur to W Shoulder but down because impossible to stay there while Americans on route. Down to BC and on to Shigatse where got 20 days extension and returned to BC after Americans had left, arrived BC 20-22 May. Now Saleki up to US C2 where used broken US tent, on up W Ridge and biv at 7800m; ABC 24th May; 25th May to US C2; 26th May biv on W Ridge. Now emotionally exhausted; no further motivation to climb. Slept there one night but now decided to abandon attempt. Afraid of more problems with Chinese Suzuki in early days on mountain; climbed to 600m on spur which leads to W Shoulder and many times to depot at 5900m with Saleki.

Germans, etc: Cho Oyu's Haerter and Hupfaur told me they saw Saleki at Shigatse 29th May. Saleki agrees this date possible. They said he was being expelled for raising Tibetan flag on Everest (Saleki says he did not put it there, doesn't know who did) and would never again receive Chinese permit or visa.