원정 개요

BC at road
ABC on moraine
C1 on moraine
C2 at bergschrund at bottom of North Face and of west side of Col
Col camp at N Col
C5 on ridges leading NE Ridge
C6 on North Face below NE Ridge
High point at 3rd Step.

Had lot of snow and zero visibility during 7-11 May when climbers high on mountain were succeeding in large members. Began climb by carrying gear to bottom of N Face. Had planned to have 3 load-carrying Sherpas but Chinese suddenly slapped big bill for Sherpas. Another problem was bad crevassing to face. Decided face climb would have consumed too much strength leaving only 2 strong enough for summit bid.

Soon as others on normal route Bruce up from C6; decided not to take a rope in interest if speed, but by time reached 8600m (below 2nd Step) had been on tricky rock terrain and Bruce now concerned that would be difficult to descend without rope here and turned back. Van Noorden went on and reached 3rd Step at 8700m. Now on final snow slope, decided Bruce correct and he also turned back in perfect weather.

2nd attempt by Curry, Perry, Rheinberger and Whetu: arrived C6 10th June. Left at 4:00 am on 11th June, in light breeze and clear sky. By time 150m fixed rope to which took time and got cold. On above on easier ground but in increasingly stronger wind at 1st step (Curry only one on oxygen). 3 were suffering and extreme loss of body heat and Whetu and Perry's feet freezing. Wind was incredibly strong in afternoon, they could not see. Reached 8500m at 9:30 am and then turned back because there were freezing and Curry not masochist. This was last attempt: of others left on mountain, one not feeling "with it" physically and Price had retinal hemmorhage 8th June at C5.