원정 개요

BC one hour up Hinku Valley from Dig Kharka
ABC at Hinku Nuptse Glacier
Biv on North Face.

New England Kangtega Expedition, led by Kevin Mahoney - 5 Nov 2008

After having established BC and ABC, the three men acclimatized by climbing on 20 October to a point just north of Kangtega marked as Point 5853 on the Schneider Shorong/Hinku map and bivouacked there. On the 21st they were back in BC, and on the 24th they returned to ABC and the start of their alpine-style ascent of their mountain.

On the 25th up the North Face and bivouacked at 6200m. On the 26th they left their bivouac at 10:00 am, reached the top at 7:00 pm.

The face was steep, up to 90 degrees. There was a shallow neve with poor protection. "This was real climbing" -- technically difficult especially at about 6000m.

On the 27th they returned to ABC and took the "long walk" to BC with boulders underfoot.