원정 개요

Chinese BC on road
C1 at Changtse corner
C2 at French ridge 1st ridge to left of Lho La
C3 at 700 ft below West Shoulder
C4 on West Ridge at bottom of steep rock band
High point at snowfield below and to right of Hornbein.

Decided immediately that North Face route was too dangerous from rock fall so went to W Ridge. Mischa Saleki had permit for ridge but his Sherpas had left and was agreed they would cooperate with Saleki using American's ropes and Sherpas but serious problems with him arose til he left 10th May.

1st summit attempt 21 April from C1, got to C3 same day, 22nd tried to go to C4 by Burleson, Habeler, Zabelata, Childin Sherpa, Tshering Sherpa and Gopal Tamang; stopped at 7300m+ because 2 Sherpas and Habeler [and Burleson] ill and attempt finished. All to BC; trekking group arrived, spent one week with group (and Habeler left with group 1 May).

Expedition objective had been to get as many people as high as possible. When found no one going above shoulder, switched over to alpine-style by experienced members. So Zabaleta and Burleson to try for summit in best possible weather so waited in ABC till 6th where moved up to C1. 9th to C3 in evening was Zabeleta, Gopal, Lhakpa Rita and Lhakpa Dorje (Burleson turned back because stomach problems). 10th Ang Tshering also to C3; night of 10th all five men to C4 and spent day of 11th there. They left C4 at 00:30 on 12th, Zabelata got sick at C4 but they pressed on anyway but had to turn back because continuing vomiting (had eaten rotten pistachio nuts at C4). Climb finished: illness and people wanted to go home after 2 months and on mountain.